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1. Shopping Bags: We’d seen Bottega Veneta models carrying shopping bags in recent seasons, leather versions made to look like paper bags. Karl Lagerfeld did similar trompe l’oeil bags at Chanel, too. This season, there were actual paper shopping bags or, as was the case at Balenciaga and Moschino, plastic ones on the runways.
2. Constricted Hands: At Luar and Weinsanto, the models’ arms were constricted by garments into contorted positions. It was like if you were doing the “Thriller” dance but not moving. At Luar, Raul Lopez’s inspiration was growing up as a closeted gay kid, and thinking about hand gestures as an implication of homosexuality.
3. Backward Clothes: Several collections reflected this topsy-turvy cultural moment. At Sarah Burton’s fantastic Givenchy debut, there were a couple of meticulously crafted suits that were designed to be worn backward, and Issey Miyake and Hodakova showed some bottoms as tops.
4. Household Objects: At Zomer, there was a lampshade hat and a carpet maxi skirt. At Givenchy, a minidress was covered in mirrored beauty compacts. And at Hodakova, a violin was worn as a hat and a snare drum served as a skirt.
5. Hair Everywhere: We saw hair in various forms, and I think it meant different things at different places. At first, it looked like shearling; then I realized it was wigs, which was unsettling. At Dilara Findikoglu, there was one look where hair was spiraling around the model’s body. For her, it was a rebellious feminine thing.
6. Grown-Up Goth: The duo behind Matières Fécales (Fecal Matter), Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, are the unofficial protégés of Rick Owens and Michèle Lamy. They designed clothes that are quite goth but also, like Rick’s clothes, really precise and elevated. The tailoring was beautiful.
7. Light-Up Garments: At the Japanese brand Anrealage’s show, models came out in dresses that looked almost like skyscrapers, and partway through the show, the garments became illuminated by LEDs. The venue was a church, so it felt really beatific. At Sunnei, there was a garment with LEDs spelling “You Are Listening to Radio Sunnei.”
8. Angel Wings: There were full angel wings on the runway at several shows, including Matières Fécales. They felt like expressions of hope. At Undercover, two models came out wearing wings, one dressed in black and one in white. There was an interplay between those two opposites.
9. Prosthetic Body Parts: The Duran Lantink show opened with a female model who was wearing a silicone six-pack and it closed with a male model in a breastplate. The most striking example of the prosthetics trend for me was the trompe l’oeil effect the designer Glenn Martens created at Diesel. One model wore a rubber garment that resembled not only a cable-knit sweater but also the wearer’s chest underneath it. It was sort of grotesque but also weirdly beautiful.
10. Giant Lashes: The ones at Vaquera and Marni were so big and fluffy. At Thom Browne, the models wore colorful lashes that looked like bird feathers. It was a bit more whimsical, more costume-y.
11. Mod to Me: Both Vaquera and Marni felt a little mod to me. There’s been a ’60s undercurrent. Penelope Tree, one of the most popular models of that decade, even walked in a couple shows this season.
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